WEST KOOTENAY BOULDERING

For the last month developers have been busy at the Valhalla Boulders up the Norns/Ladybird FSR (13.5km). With almost 50 high quality problems, these awesome boulders nestled along the shores of Ladybird Creek have turned into a wonderful summer bouldering paradise. With grades ranging from V0 – V11, lots of shade, great (sometimes sandy) landings and many different styles to choose from, the Riverside Boulders are turning out to be one of the best hot weather destinations in the West Kootenays. Click the photo above for a free download of the updated topo and have fun!

ODIN (left) – V7 ***

This amazing creekside boulder problem features some outstanding steep climbing and cool moves. The original line was conceived by Nic Williams and the FA was done this spring by Tosh Sherkat (at V11!!!) This part of the cave now has several variations and are a must while climbing at Valhalla.

Sit start as per ‘Odin’ but once you are established into the overhang, reach the jug (crux), kick your feet over and finish through the notch as per ‘Kumbaya’ or alternatively, finish as per ‘Wiener Roast’. A more attainable version that is still a very awesome line!

XENA – V9/10 ****

Likely one of the finest power crimping lines in the West Kootenays. This 30 degree overhanging line doesn’t let up, especially because the crux is right up top. The first ascent was done by Tosh Sherkat (who also added another line ‘Athena’ V10/11 to the left). This climb is a new classic in the Norns Range. Click the photo to see the amazing video by Liam Barnes of the climb!

STONE SHIP – V5 ***

This overhanging prow just to the left of ‘Viking Burial’ V3/4 at the Valhalla Boulders up Ladybird Creek is just a beauty! Start with spread out with a higher left hand edge and the lowest right hand scoop under the prow. Compress up to a sweet roof move gaining the jugs above. The landing is great and its as steep as it gets for the grade. The Valhalla Boulders offer lots of this kind of thing. Check it out.

SPIRIT IN THE SKY – V4 ***

Another great line recently added on the ‘Spirit Boulder’, this one has impeccable flow, great rock and lots of moves. Sit start in the middle of the face on a nice horizontal jug and make successively harder moves out right on crimps to finish as per the arete of ‘Stranger Things’. Did I mention this boulder is 30 feet from where you park your car? So good! Check out the updates section for the updated topo to this boulder. Awesome!

BREAKFAST BURGER – V5 ***

This excellent line is located at the Lumberjack Boulders up Ladybird/Norns FSR. Super unique climbing and movement up the 40 degree overhang on the ‘Chainsaw’ Boulder with an awesome dynamic move for the lip and a sneaky mantle. This line has a great landing and is easy to work. Another steep, standout line at the Lumberjack Boulders.

CHAINSAW – V9 ***

This cutting edge boulder problem (pun intended) is right up there with some of the best hard problems in the West Kootenays. It’s certainly one of toughest at the Grohman Boulders and the feature itself will draw you in.

Crouch start with the two lowest opposing holds on the bottom of the prow. Slap up and compress into some insane squeezing of the knife blade feature to more positive holds above. The landing has been recently upgraded which has helped this problem solidify it’s classic status. A must-do at the grade!

TOOTH & NAIL – V3 **

Another standout line at the newly developed ‘Mythical Boulders’ up at Fantasyland/Arrow Lake. This line features amazing side pull features that flow perfectly up the sculpted red face to a fun transition onto the white upper slab up high. Stand start as per ‘Fang’ (two wide opposing holds on the left side of the face) and traverse out right on side pulls and crimps to the far right hand arete. A hidden finger jug higher up the arete will ease your troubles gaining the upper slab. Fantastic climbing with a great landing, check it out! (check the Updates page on this website for more info)

BOXCAR WILLY – V6 **

Part two of the installment is also located at the Grohman Boulders. It is another line that is mis represented in the guidebook (I know, it’s brand new but I couldn’t climb every route before publishing). More fine climbing to be had at Grohman is always an awesome thing.

Crouch start with two opposing side pulls on the arete on the left side of the overhang. Compress up the arete with tricky slopers to an all points off dyno (same as ‘Night Moves’) to the sick sloper jug over the lip and a fun mantle. This line is very good and listed as V7 and only one star in the current guidebook. It’s actually really good. Have fun!

BENGAL SPICE – V7 ***

This list the first of the series, a classic at Grohman that is often overlooked. It features some mighty fine rock and it’s close to many other good lines.

Located at the Track Boulders at Grohman. Described in the guidebook as V6 with only one star. This is actually a fine crimpy test piece with extremely high quality stone. Stand start on the obvious crimpy rail and make tenuous moves up and right with small feet to better holds and a big chuck for the side pull jug as per ‘Macho Man’. Finish on the good holds of that route. Highly recommended for those looking for a technical line on crimps. Check it out!